Free Pattern: Crochet Pop Tab Bow Ring

Has anyone ever asked what is the inspiration behind one your designs?  

Don't laugh .... I was inspired to create the Pop Tab Bow Ring after watching a recent episode of 'Jerseylicious'. 

The show itself doesn't do anything for me but I love tuning in to see what jewelry Tracey and Olivia will be wearing.  The earrings are so big they look heavy enough to rip right out of their ears and the rings almost swallow up the whole hand. 

So when I saw Tracey wearing this big bow ring I just had to make one for myself.

 

 

 

 So I wondered what would a pop tab bow ring look like, and here it is:

 

Here is the pattern for you to make one for yourself:

SKILL LEVEL:  Easy

MATERIALS:

• Crochet Hook - Size F
• Plastic Yarn:  1 plastic bag of choice (recommended strip width:  approx 1")
• 1 Pop/Pul Tab (cleaned with a smooth inside edge)
• Sewing or Craft Needle

*Foundation:  Join plastic yarn aka plarn with a slip stitch in a hole of the pull/pop tab, single crochet in same hole and single crochet in next hole, turn.

Row 1:  Chain 1, 2 single crochet in both stitches, turn. (4)

Row 2:  Chain 1, 2 single crochet in first stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches and 2 single crochet in last stitch, turn. (6)

Row 3:  Chain 1, 2 single crochet in first stitch,  single crochet in next 4 stitches and 2 single crochet in last stitch, turn. (8)

Row 4:  Chain 1, Chain 1, 2 single crochet in first stitch, single crochet in next 6 stitches and 2 single crochet in last stitch, turn. (10)  Fasten off, weave in ends.

*Repeat on opposite side of pop tab.



Ring:  (Designer Note:  The # of rows on each side will determine how tight/loose you want the ring - 5 rows was a nice fit for my ring and pointer fingers and a good tight fight for my middle finger.) 

*With wrong side facing you, join plarn with a slip stitch through existing stitch, single crochet in same space, single crochet in next hole through existing stitch, turn.  Chain 1, single crochet in both stitches for 5 rows.  DO NOT BIND OFF, remove hook making a big enough loop so you don't lose the stitch.  *Repeat on opposite for 5 rows.  Do a quick fitting.  When completed, on one side complete stitches and weave in loose end.  On the other side fasten off leaving long enough tail to whip stitch both ends together.

When completed, on one side complete stitch and weave in loose end. On the other side fasten off leaving long enough tail to whip stitch both ends together.

Edging is optional: 

• The gray bow was edged using the reverse single crochet by joining the plarn with a slip stitch at the foundation row then reverse single crochet stitch in each end row stitch around back to the foundation row.  Repeat on the opposite side.
• The brown bow was edged by joining plarn with a slip stitch at the foundation row, *chain 1, slip stitch in next end row stitch.  *Repeat around to back to the foundation row. Repeat for the opposite side.

 

Optional but recommended:  After creating the design I noticed the bow didn't  want to lay flat.  It kept bending up.   To remedy this, use the extra matching plarn and needle to stitch the foundation row to the top of the ring.  I found this did the trick.

Wear it proudly or gift it to a 'Olivia' or 'Tracy' you know!!!

Feel free to email me with any questions at plastiquerecreations@yahoo.com



Tutorial - How to Make a Continuous Strand of Yarn using a flat textile like sheets or curtains

Since creating the tutorial on how to make blue jean yarn (http://plastiqrecreation.blogspot.com/2009/10/how-to-make-handspun-blue-jean-yarn.html), I've learned with experience that once a seam is cut into, it becomes compromised making it vulnerable to falling apart.   So while I'm in the process of making something, it falls apart.   I have been lucky enough that some seams that are cut through are sewn stronger and stay in tact even after the fray process.  But the majority of time I end up with multiple strands of various lengths.  As a result, I spend more time than I want sewing the ends together.  And, yes this can be time consuming.

If there is a way to make yarn in a single strand with a tube, then there is a way to make a continuious strand of yarn without a tube.  I could use the 'make a slit and connect the strips' but that for me is just too time consuming.  If you haven't learned by now, I am impatient.

After much practice, I finally figured it out.    The awesome thing is this cutting method can be used on any type of material like sheets, curtains, etc..

For this tutorial, pants are used.   Feel free to skip down to the 'Cutting Method':



Cut legs off below crotch.

Cutt off bottom hem or pull out the stitches of bottom hem. 

                    

  Rip out side seams.   

1 pair of pants gives you 4 strips  

                     

                                           

Cutting Method 



                  

  Take one layer and match up the sides lengthwise.






 

Lay flat on cutting board. Starting at right edge, measure in desired width of strip, cut through bottom fold up to approx. 1/4" to 1/2" below top edge. Recommended width for each strip is not less than 1/2". 

           



This is what it will look like when cutting is done.

Lay piece flat.

   




Starting at bottom edge, cut through to make 1st strip. 



                

Each cut after 1st will be every 2nd strip to end.

This is what it will look like when all done.



Now working on the opposite side.



Starting at bottom edge, each cut will be opposite of other side.

                                                    


 If it helps, the strip looks like an upside 'V'. Cut through the middle of the 'V'.   

  


After the continuous strip is completed, go back and look at the strips and cut closer to the edge.

Not too close because you want it to hold up through the wash and driy process.

 

Here is what it looks like right after cutting but before wash/dry processing.

The wash & dry process gives yarn the frayed look.

                            

       

Here are a few other pant yarns that I have made.  I would love to know what types of yarn you make with this tutorial.  Let me know if additional clarification is needed.   By all means don't hesitate to email me at plastiquerecreations@yahoo.com if you have any questions. 

Wrap&Go Checkbook/Wallet Organizer Crochet-Plarn Along - Part 1: Let's Get This Party Started

(added excellent feedback received from plarn crocheters participating in this C-PAL)

We've been spreading the word ...  the time has finally arrived for us to get crazy.

The pattern instructions for the Wrap & Go Checkbook/Wallet Organizer will be offered in the following 3 increments:

Part 1 Instructions:  Pouch
Part 2 Instructions:  Flap
Part 3/Finale Instructions:  Wraparoundband & Flower

Here are hints/tips I offer on all my patterns:

• Read through the pattern instructions before beginning.
• When using plarn, it’s a good idea to stretch your work after every couple of rows. This will give you a more realistic view of what you have completed up to that point.
• Ch 1 at beginning of each row is not counted as the 1st stitch.
• Plastic in general is susceptible to ripping/tearing due to its very nature.
   o Weaving in ends - it is best to maneuver your craft needle in between the stitch or stitches to avoid splitting the plastic yarn.

-------------------------- 
Practice Swatch:
I typically don’t suggest making a practice swatch because achieving a certain height/width is an individual preference. However, it is suggested to ensure the Organizer is the wide enough for what you propose to put in it.


Ch 22, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across. Row 2-4: Hdc in each st across. Lay piece on flat surface and place the widest item that you will put in the Organizer once it is completed on top. The piece should be slightly (not much) wider than the item. If more width is needed, try again with additional # of ch sts until desired width is achieved.
---------------------------
MATERIALS:

• Crochet Hook – Size F & H
• Plastic Yarn (NOTE: 12 – 1” strips per standard size plastic bag = 6 yards):
   o Main Color – Approximately 20 plastic bags
   o Contrasting Color – Approximately 10 plastic bags
• Craft needle

ABBREVIATIONS Pattern Instructions:

blo = back loop only
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet
flo – front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
rev sc = reverse single crochet
sc = single crochet
sl = slip
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together
tr (treble or triple)






With H hook and main color, ch 22 or # determined with practice swatch.
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch1, turn.
Row 2 – 22 (or desired height): Hdc in each st across.  Finish with right side.

 (Tip: Depth determines Height. To ensure an accurate height is achieved, fold the piece in half and place whatever you will be using the Organizer (e.g. checkbook, calculator, cell phone, etc.) for inside. This gives a more accurate way of determining if additional rows will need to be added for height. 



Photo 1



Photo 2

Ch 1, sc in end st (1^st corner) and in end st of each row to corner, 3 sc in corner, across edge to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in end st of each row matching up with opposite side (Important:  evenly match up sts on both sides or the rows will not have a straight line appearance when stitching up the sides, refer to photo 6), 3 sc in corner, across edge back to corner, 2 sc in corner (back at 1^st corner), join with a sl st in beginning sc.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Photo 3

Sides (repeat on both sides):

With contrasting color and wrong side facing you, join with a sl st at the corner and sc in each st across, ch 1 turn. Sc in each st across. Fasten off leaving about 6” tail for sewing sides together.

Photo 4

Fold piece in half lengthwise with right sides together (wrong side out), st sides together with tail. (Stitch Suggestion – whip st the blo of one side and flo of other side [the 2 sts back to back]).  Fasten off; weave in all loose plarn ends.

Photo 5

Turn pouch inside out and push out bottom corners. Just give the pouch a good stretch, tug and pull on both the front and sides.   a sl st in 1^st sc st.



Photo 6





Please feel free to post your comments, questions and/or progress pictures via this blog post or at any one of the following sites:

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/plastiqrecreat (you will have to be a friend for real time 'chat')

Ravelry:  Group - From Trash to Treasures

Craftsters.org:  http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=364976.0

Crochetville:  http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122076

11/28- Sharing the excellent feedback received from a few plarn crocheters - RecycleCindy and KristyRecycles ....

1) Both used a ch base of 28 w/hdc in 2nd chain from hook instead of the ch 22 I used. RecycleCindy is using newspaper sleeve plastic yarn which would have a completely different texture/thickness than the Dollar General or Lowe's plastic yarn I have used.


This confirms my previous comments of what to consider when using plarn for any project -
a) the type of plastic bag - textures/thickness differs
b) tension - loose or tight crochet stitch
c) width of plastic strip - determines gauge


2) Ch 2 at row end was used as an alternative for a more taylored edge.


More feedback to received -
11/30 - Received progress update from a fellow Craftster crocheter participating in this C-PAL:

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=364976.msg...  / Reply #18 … she even included pics …

This is so awesome!!! Keep the feedback coming -luv it!!!